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The following are excerpts from the Salamandre Newsletter:
Rattler Tales - Winter 2002
Robin, Jim, and
I returned to the Trinity Alps in July to nourish our craving for white granite and red wine, clear
water and sheer mischief. Patches of snow still lurked in north-facing gullies, and Caribou Lake
offered a shivery welcome to the old swimmers. We slithered out like shriveled amphibians but warmed
our bodies like lizards on black schist boulders.
As shadows crept up the walls of the huge cirque and the crags turned from silver to gold to
copper, Primitivo amplified the meager virtues of my cooking. We retold stories of karmic closure as black
velvet draped the meadow. Jim pointed out Delphinius, then a meteor match torched the sky between
Cassiopeia and Perseus. The lady won, naturally…a worthy omen for my daughter's wedding the next week.
On the dawn of our departure, Robin strode ahead of his elders toward the knifelike ridgeline separating
the lush Caribou basin from the Stuarts Fork drainage. He could see the crown peaks of the Trinities
piercing the rosy morning haze, the jeweled chain of lakes far below, and the distant glower of a northern
forest fire. A warm breeze ruffled his silver feathers. Relishing his few moments of privacy in this eyrie of
red serpentine, Robin also sensed the familiar rumblings afforded by some fine Aptos coffee.
Ducking discretely behind a windblasted hemlock, Robin assumed the traditional backcountry position.
Instead of the usual rude noises of daily bliss, however, he heard a hiss known instinctively to every man since Adam.
Robin peered between his legs into the cold eyes of a fat rattlesnake coiled within striking distance of unspeakable
mayhem. Robin bolted like a 200 pound cricket, but with his shorts around his ankles, he flew more like a turtle.
He tumbled head over teakettles through the scrabbly scree, coming to rest in the uncharitable embrace of a
manzanita bush.
Morals? (1) Enjoy your wine tonight, because you never know what's going to bite you tomorrow. (2) Look first. (3) Gracefulness is overrated. (4) Don't trust a rattlesnake to rattle. (5) Keep your friends laughing.
Salamanders stroll out in the December rain
Chanterelles sprout up in the oaky terrain
Old souls pine for a frisky solstice
Old bones cryin' for a whiskey poultice
Young eyes crane for the bulging stocking
49'ers train for the fullback blocking
Our tears have dried after the Giants' defeat
You shouldn't allow your cellar to deplete
Cleopatra's servants dutifully fanned her
But she never tasted a red Salamandre
If you're in need of tasteful carousin'
We're ready to pour the wines of 2000
Browsin' the Wines of 2000
2000 Ménage à Trois We blended equal parts of 2000 Primitivo, Merlot, and Syrah after a year of barrel age, then left these lovers unchaperoned In a dark corner of the winery for another year. They not only made friends, they had time to indulge each other's most intimate fantasies of delicious expression. The 1998 Menage sold out immediately to people who tasted it at the winery. We have a little more of the 2000, but it won't last long.
2000 Primitivo The once mysterious origins of California's Zinfandel have been traced to Primitivo, growing in Calabria in Southern Italy. While it is possible that those vines originally traveled across the Adriatic from Croatia, one thing is certain: they love the climate and soil of Southern Monterey County! The 1998, 1999 and 2000 won gold medals in the Monterey or the Santa Cruz County Fairs, and it's no surprise. The black cherry and berry aromas bolt out of the glass. Surprisingly for a wine with such muscular body, the flavors dance with lithe agility, then glide into a never-ending aftertaste. This is my backcountry wine, beach wine, big storm wine, best friends wine.
2000 Chardonnay We've been making Chardonnay from these same vines in Arroyo Seco for over 20 years. Each year we see forward fruitiness with citrus, melon, and pineapple tones, offset by a stout acid backbone which makes this wine dance with meals. We ferment in French oak barrels then age on the lees, aiming for a subtle toasty oak accent. Our Chardonnays tend to open up after 2 years in bottle, much as we have come to expect from French wines from the same grapes. Silver medal this summer…this one is approaching its prime time.
Pinot Noir 2000 This was our first harvest from an experimental planting of Dijon clone Pinot Noir vines in Arroyo Seco. We think this is going to be a perfect match of climate and variety, with sweatshirt cool mornings, a hot mid day, and a chilling marine wind late every afternoon. This first harvest is light in color, like many Burgundies. Bright cherry aromas dominate the first impression, and the long aftertaste gives a hint of what's to come with several more years of vine maturity. Perfect match for pork, chicken, and, surprisingly, salmon.
Merlot 2000 Merlot from Arroyo Seco in a warm year develops a rich black plum flavor, which has now melded with the vanilla tones from the French and American oak barrel ageing. Unlike many "restaurant Merlots" designed for simple fruity consumption practically before puberty, this one is maturing sensibly! Great choice with lamb...or by itself while you contemplate the approaching winter.
Syrah 2000 Simply stated, a rich, deep, stout companion to red meats with robust sauces and creatively spiced vegetarian dishes. This will be the last chance to purchase this wine retail before Café Cruz pours the rest this winter.