Malbec 2008, Wiley Ranch, Arroyo Seco

Malbec is considered by the Bordelaise to be a minor blending component for traditional Bordeaux reds…dwarfed in both proportion and praise by Cabernet and Merlot. Indeed, we dutifully followed that convention in creating our 2006 Coyote Cuvée (14% Malbec). However, in Argentina, Malbec is the center of attention, and deservedly so. For decades of grim isolationism, few Argentine wines ever escaped the country, but when they did, they dazzled us. My first exposure was a Trumpeter back in the early 80’s, probably aged 12-15 years in the bottle. I still remember the elegant swan on the label. Well, the secret is out. In 2008, I kept Salamandre’s inky, intense Malbec separate, and I was excited by the unusual combination of red fruit aromas in nearly black wine: raspberry and cherry, plus one I couldn’t place in the barrel tastings. It’s the smell of old fashioned roses, now layered with a subtle vanilla contribution from the barrel. This wine is quite tannic at release, benefiting from substantial “breathing” in 2010…but eager to chase your steak right now. By 2012 it is going to chase your daughter. By then it will be sold out, so be a good gaucho and lay some down.

Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains , Meadowridge 2007

Rose and Bob Weber's Meadowridge vines push deeper into the soils of Corralitos every year, and we expect greater complexity from these Dijon clones with each successive vintage.  The charming 2006 has disappeared from the cellar, but the new release 2007 brings the same cherry, pomegranate, and strawberry fruit elements with a more bracing tannin structure and somewhat darker color.  The enchanting earthiness from earlier vintages still beckons you to go find some Chanterelles, or if you are really resourceful, some morels.  While it earned a silver medal in the 2009 Santa Cruz Mountains competition despite its youth, I expect this wine to mature well beyond cold metallic definitions into the velvety hedonistic indulgence that we all expect from handmade Pinot Noir.  It is also the perfect example to serve to an inquiring innocent who wants to know:  “What is Pinot Noir supposed to taste like?”   The innocence won't last, but we'll have replacements available.    

Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains , Dettamanti 2007

This will be our last vintage from this small vineyard on the summit of the Santa Cruz Mountains , and it's going out with a flourish. Dark for a Pinot, full of flavor and presumption. Silver in 2009, but I like it more than the 2004 which earned a gold .

Aimée Rosé

Named for a remarkable woman and made with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this wine is beautiful to behold in sunlight, delicious to taste in any light, and priced so that any passionate person can buy a case.

Primitivo 2007, Monterey County

Primitivo, hands down, is our most successful wine, but not because of its history of gold medals or its “subtle nuances.” It just parks its old truck in your front yard, brings out a guitar, fires up the grill, and soon enough, your wife and children are out there dancing. Might as well join them, because this is a flavor festival that's going to last all night. Ditch the necktie.

Coyote Cuvée 2006, Wiley Ranch, Arroyo Seco

We bottled the second edition of the Coyote Cuvée in May, 2008, after 19 months in the cellar in mixed Nevers and American oak. The blend is a little softer than the 2004, which by the way is really spreading its wings now. It’s 29% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and 14% each of Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petite Verdot…representing all 5 of the traditional Bordeaux blending varietals. I offers a really welcoming, warm fruitiness of plum and cassis, with hints of cedar and vanilla. I think you’re going to love this one, and it will be ready for tasting in the fall…and for lots of happy years beyond.

Coyote Cuvée 2007, Wiley Ranch, Arroyo Seco *NEW RELEASE*

The third in the Bordeaux-inspired Coyote Cuvée Series is probably the inkiest yet, with approximately 2/3 Cabernet Sauvignon, ¼ Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petite Verdot.  Even at this young stage of its development, it shows many layers of “black fruit,” complex spice along with pepper, and a tasteful vanilla contribution from the 2 years of oak ageing.  The body is full, dare I say bordering upon voluptuous, and I find it takes immense discipline not to pour a second glass.  The somewhat softer 2006 Coyote Cuvée is hitting its stride beautifully right now, with all 5 Bordeaux varietals coming together harmoniously.  We hesitated to release its stouter younger brother to compete, but we figured you can handle it. 

Newt South Wells 2006, Monterey County

I first tasted a bright, brash, unapologetically fruity Cabernet and Shiraz blend from Australia about 15 years ago. Of course, my lifelong personal challenges with authority have led me to admire the Aussies’ collective willingness to rattle the traditional chains that bind European conventions and tinker with blends that are iconoclastically, ravishly, Under-Handed. When Sandie and I visited Western Australia in 2006 and tasted extensively, that distant respect grew into an intensely personal conviction. I also came to believe that some of the uniquely spicy character of the Aussie blends may owe partly to the content of Cabernet Franc in many of the really good ones.

I decided to make an Aussie-inspired blend that Fall, but what to call it? I wanted to honor the Aussie’s initiative as well as their inimitable mischief, and I also wanted to mention Salamandre’s partner and vice president of unbridled enthusiasm, Dave South. While drinking Verdelho in Sydney on our last night, the name arose like a dancer from the glass. We put together 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Shiraz, 18% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Primitivo, all from Monterey County. It’s inky, bold, and bulging with fruit…absolutely what I was hoping for. Until 2010, it’s going to come across young, and I’d encourage you to decant it an hour before serving.

Chardonnay 2008, Arroyo Seco

I have been making Chardonnay from these same vines for 32 years...including all 25 of our commercially bonded vintages.   I have cherished a few favorites over those years, and this 2008 is one of the top 5.  It's just full of fruit with that unique, Arroyo Seco character of citrus, melon, and a hint of pineapple...maybe even mango.  It has a tasteful oak background, plenty of acid to complement any meal, and an aftertaste that lingers longer than a desert sunset.  I have yet to see an opened bottle of this wine be left on the counter with even a drop left inside. 

You know those fools who claim not to like Chardonnay?  Invite them over so you don't have to share this one. 

Pinot Blanc 2008, Arroyo Seco

Pinot Blanc is an under-respected grape that simply needs a cooler name.  It's cousin, Pinot Noir, raises the red flag with the exalted reputation of Burgundy and the lingering titillation of Sideways to rationalize some audacious pricing.  Pinot Grigio has a cool Italian name that anybody can pronounce...and impress your date.  But Pinot Blanc gets lost in the shuffle.  However, if any of the darling grapes, like Viognier for instance, tasted as good as this Pinot Blanc, they'd actually earn some of their hype.  Then we'd have to double the price and allocate the Pinot Blanc...but we won't do that.  This one offers a fabulous white peach aroma, with a sumptuous body, a nice acid backbone, and a lovely aftertaste...perfect for Coquilles St. Jacques or mussel soup with some saffron and butter.  To our deep despair, these vines were extirpated in 2009...there will be no more once the 2008 is gone.

Viognier 2007, Late Harvest, Arroyo Seco

OK, buckle up.  I need to be honest—while Viognier has achieved a darling status in the marketplace, I really haven't tasted many California Viogniers that would stand out in a blind tasting of well made Chenin Blancs.  I think I know why so many are disappointingly thin, and why the exalted “violets” are so hard to find.  The Viognier grapes at Arroyo Seco at 24 Brix, normally nudging the upper limits of white grape harvest targets, still haven't reached mature concentration of flavors.  They're just not ready.  Pick the grapes then, and you would have a wine pushing 14% alcohol, but with rather thin flavors which we'd need to flatter by saying “delicate.”  Accordingly, we let these grapes hang…and hang…and hang.  Up around 28 Brix, some pretty remarkable things were happening with fruit development, still with surprisingly good acid, but then there's a big problem.  That sugar level is a never-never land for harvesting, as the juice will ferment to dryness, creating an really flavorful wine…with 16% alcohol…a wine in search of a niche.    So we let them hang some more…waiting until the natural sweetness reached such a high level that the fermentation would surrender with natural sugar remaining.  The 2007 late fall weather was steady, with an early rain followed by warm breezy conditions for weeks.  That was a stroke, not really of genius, but of gratitude.   

We finally harvested the week before Thanksgiving.  The grapes were shriveled but sound, with the prized Botrytis mold enveloping many of the clusters.  The pressing took 2 full days, as the grapes yielded their syrupy juice begrudgingly, and I can see why…it was pure honeysuckle with a nuance of pears and fairies.   The fermentation eventually settled with 9% residual sugar, and it's just a sensual treat.  I debated whether to enter it in the Santa Cruz Mountains competition just 2 weeks after bottling, but like the crazy scientist said in Back to the Future , I thought:  “Oh, what the hell.”  It missed a gold by a slender wisp (89 points)…and just wait ‘til Fall. 

Gold Medal, Best Dessert Wine, and tied for highest score in the 2009 Santa Cruz Mountains competition.”

Primitivo 2004 Ultra Late Harvest

A few warm days spiked the harvest sugar well beyond what normal yeast can handle...over 35%. It quit with 14% residual sugar...more than most ports, with a great concentration of ripe fruit flavors. Yes, of course, this harmonizes with dark chocolate, but try it with vanilla ice cream or Bosc pears or, perhaps best of all, an imaginative companion. This wine is precious and scarce—I've never made anything like it before and may never have the chance again.