“Corked Wines”: An Aggravation for Everybody
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We've all participated in the ritual of a waiter pouring a small sample of the wine we ordered, waiting for us to swirl, sniff, and taste…and hopefully nod with a grin in anticipation of the rest of the bottle. Once in a blue moon, however, the wine will not fulfill one's expectations. The waiter will see the furrows on your brow, ask to smell the wine, and may agree that the wine is “corked” or “corky.” A good restaurant will bring you another bottle to test…hopefully with a better outcome! (See a footnote below.)
So what are “corked” or “cork-tainted” wines? After all, the vast majority of California wines, and until recently, wines of the world, come with corks in the neck.
About one in a hundred bottles of the very best wine from the very best grapes in the hands of the very best winemakers…will offend the consumer with a distinctive, unpleasant, “chemically” aroma that reminds me of my parents' basement. This smell usually comes from, indeed, an organic compound trichloroanisole…or TCA for short. Experts do not agree across the board, but TCA most likely comes from a small percentage of normal appearing corks…and it is a real problem for both wineries and consumers. (I've read statements on the web that 5 – 10% of wines are cork tainted, but that is not believable to me.)
Cork is, after all, oak tree bark, raised in Portugal under great scrutiny, harvested meticulously without killing the tree, die cut into cylinders, and processed with keen, modern quality control. Tiny pores in the cork are natural, but they can hold natural resins and other materials, and some of these may interact with molds or traces of the bleaching and sterilizing agents, creating compounds with off odors. These materials can leach into the wine after bottling.
“Corked” wines not only have the distinctive smell—anywhere from subtle to severe—but the normal fruity characters of the wine are flattened or obliterated.
If you or one of your friends opens a bottle which is “corked,” take the chance to smell and taste that wine, and remember it! (TCA is harmless, so there is absolutely no hazard in drinking the wine…just the disappointment that the wine falls well below your expectations.)
With mild “corkiness,” some people may not recognize the flaw as the cause, just think instead that the winery is no good. So in a paradoxical way, winemakers hope that if one of their wines is “corked,” they hope it is miserably, incontrovertibly, in-your-face corked…and they will hope for a second chance to please you (see below).
At Salamandre, we purchase the most expensive corks from a company which we regard as the best cork supplier, and we have seen the instances of “corky wines” decline substantially…but not to zero. We know this is awkward, because offending one out of 100 or so customers is a terrible “business plan” when longstanding personal relationships constitute both our pleasure and our future.
So what are “corked” or “cork-tainted” wines? After all, the vast majority of California wines, and until recently, wines of the world, come with corks in the neck.
About one in a hundred bottles of the very best wine from the very best grapes in the hands of the very best winemakers…will offend the consumer with a distinctive, unpleasant, “chemically” aroma that reminds me of my parents' basement. This smell usually comes from, indeed, an organic compound trichloroanisole…or TCA for short. Experts do not agree across the board, but TCA most likely comes from a small percentage of normal appearing corks…and it is a real problem for both wineries and consumers. (I've read statements on the web that 5 – 10% of wines are cork tainted, but that is not believable to me.)
Cork is, after all, oak tree bark, raised in Portugal under great scrutiny, harvested meticulously without killing the tree, die cut into cylinders, and processed with keen, modern quality control. Tiny pores in the cork are natural, but they can hold natural resins and other materials, and some of these may interact with molds or traces of the bleaching and sterilizing agents, creating compounds with off odors. These materials can leach into the wine after bottling.
“Corked” wines not only have the distinctive smell—anywhere from subtle to severe—but the normal fruity characters of the wine are flattened or obliterated.
If you or one of your friends opens a bottle which is “corked,” take the chance to smell and taste that wine, and remember it! (TCA is harmless, so there is absolutely no hazard in drinking the wine…just the disappointment that the wine falls well below your expectations.)
With mild “corkiness,” some people may not recognize the flaw as the cause, just think instead that the winery is no good. So in a paradoxical way, winemakers hope that if one of their wines is “corked,” they hope it is miserably, incontrovertibly, in-your-face corked…and they will hope for a second chance to please you (see below).
At Salamandre, we purchase the most expensive corks from a company which we regard as the best cork supplier, and we have seen the instances of “corky wines” decline substantially…but not to zero. We know this is awkward, because offending one out of 100 or so customers is a terrible “business plan” when longstanding personal relationships constitute both our pleasure and our future.
One my memorable experiences with corked wines came while I was serving the young proprietors of a lovely new restaurant one of my most prideful wines—a Sauvignon Musqué full of ripe fig aromas with touches of honey. By that time, it had earned gold medals in 3 competitions, and it remains one of my all time favorites. I served it with a flourish, expecting a warm wave of accolades and smiles, only to see instead the telltale bunching of their eyebrows. Uh oh. I smelled it and yelped: “ Expletive …this wine is corked!” They were perplexed. So I said: “Let me show you.” I pulled an adjacent bottle from the same box, and meanwhile prayed that this would not be the day that my accumulated transgressions would be punished in public. Happily, the second bottle was ravishingly delicious, and they thanked me for the lesson, kept the bad bottle to teach waitstaff, and ordered a case.
Great save …but what if the first bottle was their only experience with Salamandre? It probably would have been the last.
I don't want any customer to have a “one and out” experience with us…really, we're better than that!
When one of our customers opens a Salamandre bottle less than 5 years old with a bona fide “corked” character, let us know. You do not need to save the wine (yuck), but we would definitely want to have that cork. We will replace your bottle with one of comparable heritage and price.
What about screw caps? With very rare exception, screw cap finished wines have surpassed cork finished wines in blind tastings. Virtually all of the Aussie and New Zealand wines, including their priciest prestige bottlings, are now capped. California wineries are picking up the trend, and Salamandre eventually will, too. Meanwhile, we just love that “plop” when the cork comes out and the Pavlovian grins spread across our faces.
Bottle needing message
Footnote: Wine in Restaurants—a few etiquette reminders
I have been privileged to work with the hospitality industry over the last 25+ years, and I think that restaurateurs work harder than any other walk of life, including most of my fellow physicians, except perhaps small dairy farmers. Wine is mightily important to contemporary restaurants, obviously, and that pouring ritual at the table has developed a certain lore. Restaurant insiders confide three gripes about wine purchasers:
My advice? When in doubt, ask the waiter's or the proprietor's advice! Really—you will put your pleasure in the hands of someone who is going to be personally motivated for you enjoy the experience!
Great save …but what if the first bottle was their only experience with Salamandre? It probably would have been the last.
I don't want any customer to have a “one and out” experience with us…really, we're better than that!
When one of our customers opens a Salamandre bottle less than 5 years old with a bona fide “corked” character, let us know. You do not need to save the wine (yuck), but we would definitely want to have that cork. We will replace your bottle with one of comparable heritage and price.
What about screw caps? With very rare exception, screw cap finished wines have surpassed cork finished wines in blind tastings. Virtually all of the Aussie and New Zealand wines, including their priciest prestige bottlings, are now capped. California wineries are picking up the trend, and Salamandre eventually will, too. Meanwhile, we just love that “plop” when the cork comes out and the Pavlovian grins spread across our faces.
Bottle needing message
Footnote: Wine in Restaurants—a few etiquette reminders
I have been privileged to work with the hospitality industry over the last 25+ years, and I think that restaurateurs work harder than any other walk of life, including most of my fellow physicians, except perhaps small dairy farmers. Wine is mightily important to contemporary restaurants, obviously, and that pouring ritual at the table has developed a certain lore. Restaurant insiders confide three gripes about wine purchasers:
- “Not what I expected.” Some patrons will order a wine that they simply don't like…or one which is not what they expected…and they'll send it back, despite the fact the wine is perfectly sound. That's not fair, guys. That opened bottle was bought but cannot be re-sold. The customer should either order something he or she knows very well, or buy wine by the glass, or else be willing to expand his or her horizons with something new.
- “Late call.” Occasionally, a patron will nod “OK” to the initial taste, then pour half the bottle, only to decide that it's not “good,” and ask for a replacement. That's rather awkward, friends. If the first bottle really was corked or “bad” in some other way, best to raise your hand early. If it dawns on you later, certainly don't drink something you find troubling, but if half that bottle has found refuge in your tummy, try to make some gracious overture to your hosts. That usually involves another purchase.
- “Gone to Vinegar.” I've also heard people claim that their wine has “turned to vinegar.” Actually, that is not biochemically possible… honest! Old wines usually gradually loose fruitiness and color intensity, and after a point, they lose interest, too. However, unless the bottle has been leaking, there is zero chance it has turned to vinegar, a process which requires both oxygen and a population of bacteria, neither of which will be found in a sealed bottle. Ordering a really old wine means you are likely spending a good chunk of change and taking an acknowledged chance…and don't expect the restaurant to take it back if it is simply “tired.” Instead, if you are anxious about this possibility, stick with red wines less than 8-10 years old or whites less than 3 years old. You'll miss a few special experiences, maybe, but you won't get one that is “over the hill.”
My advice? When in doubt, ask the waiter's or the proprietor's advice! Really—you will put your pleasure in the hands of someone who is going to be personally motivated for you enjoy the experience!